Generally, carpets are fairly dry overnight. However, if they are very thick piled or if we have to go over them several times to get them cleaned, they may take longer. Carpets in basements, especially damp basements, may take a little longer, as well. Note: There are cleaning methods that dry faster. However, they are generally considered by the industry to be more of an interim or surface cleaning method. Our cleaning is considered a restorative or deeper cleaning. Q: Why do you recommend area rugs be cleaned in your shop? A: For one thing they go through a more extensive process when done in-shop. When in the shop, we are able to flip them upside down and use a special machine called a rug beater. This machine uses a rotating drum with special belts that vibrate the carpet to dislodge the damaging grit, while it vacuums the back. “We Beat The Dirt Every Time.” This of course can’t be done in the home. Then, after a surface vacuuming, we clean the rug much in the same way we do in-home and handwash any fringe. The second advantage is that we have a proper dry room where area rugs are hung to dry. This allows them to dry faster and air out. This is especially important for fine wool rugs. Note: Although we will clean synthetic area rugs in-home if you wish, we strongly recommend that wool rugs be done in-shop. Q: Can I drop my rugs off to be cleaned? A: Certainly. We just ask that you make an appointment. Most of our work is done in-home and there is not always someone in the shop (We don’t want you to drop by and find no one there). Q: If I have my rug cleaned, will all the stains come out? A: If you know what the stains are from, we could give you a better answer. Unfortunately, there are several substances that will damage and permanently stain a carpet. Even treated carpets are not totally impervious to all stains. A lot depends on what the carpet itself is made of, if it’s been stain treated, how long the stain has been there, etc. The good news is that when we clean a carpet or area rug, we do not charge extra to try everything we have to remove the stain. But no one can guarantee that all stains will come out. As a basic rule of thumb, stains and spots that simply look like dark areas on the carpet are likely to come out. The problem is usually with areas that are lighter than the rest of the carpet, indicating a colour loss or areas that have a colour change, for example beige to red. That doesn’t mean they won’t come out, just that they are more problematic. Note: Depending on certain conditions, as a last resort, it may be possible for us to patch a permanently damaged area with a new piece of carpet. Q: Why does my year-old carpet seem so matted and dull? A: Do you live in a new subdivision? The reason I ask is that often the carpet that is installed in a new home is “builders’ quality.” Basically, a builder wanting to keep the cost of a new home low for his customer, will go to a carpet supplier and say I have 20 or so new homes—how cheap can you supply carpet or what is your bid? The supplier, wanting the sale, will spec a lower quality carpet. There is nothing wrong with that. That’s just the way it often gets done. The fact is that any carpet looks good when new. The problem is that less expensive carpets are made less dense and from less expensive fibres. These lower quality carpets tend to mat more readily and can attract oils much more than higher quality carpets, causing them to get dull and dirty faster.
This has the effect of making people think that carpet in general is bad, when in fact they may just have a lower quality carpet. The other thing is if you moved in while there is still construction in the area, there is likely a lot of dirt in the air that may be coming in and getting on the carpet. Q: Is it a good idea to use mats to protect the carpet? A: Yes and no. The problem with mats placed on the carpet is that people put them in high traffic areas, thinking that at some point they will remove the mat and have great looking carpet underneath. But what usually happens is that the carpet all around the mat gets worn or faded and the dirt falls off the mat, leaving a ring around it. So if you remove the mat, the area underneath is so distinctly different that you end up having to leave the mat there, so nothing is gained. The only time that mats placed on the carpet may have some value is when they are placed where you may have sudden damage, like from sparks in front of a fireplace or cigarette burns near a smoker’s chair, etc. In any event, never place mats with a black rubberized backing on another rug as it may stain it. Having said that, mats placed before the entrance to carpeted areas are a great idea. They can absorb dirt before it is tracked onto the carpet. Q: Your quote for cleaning is higher than others. Why? A: Because we do a better job. Sorry, I guess that deserves a better explanation. A lot of people look at carpet or upholstery cleaning as if it were a product. What I mean by that is if you were to see a product such as a toaster at one store, and then go to another store and find the same exact toaster for $10.00 less, you could buy it knowing you got a deal; it’s the same thing that you are buying. However, when you “buy” carpet cleaning, you are buying a service, not an end product, and those services and results can be vastly different. We have no problem with people charging less. We believe that in general, you get what you pay for. We actually feel that if some company is willing to charge, for example, half of what we charge and then does half as good a job, we think that is fair and you got what you paid for. The difference from us is that we have always specialized in superior cleaning for “fussy” customers. For example, many companies offer hot water extraction or “steam cleaning” and whether you use us or not, this is the type of cleaning that we and most carpet manufacturers recommend. If you have never seen others do it, a combination wand is used to inject a cleaning chemical into the carpet under high pressure. It then takes maybe a tenth of a second to break down and mix with the dirt and stains before powerful vacuums suck it out. As a system, nothing removes more dirt. There are some drawbacks however. First, the cleaning chemical is not on the carpet long enough to break down the soil and stains completely. Second, like all cleaning systems, you are putting a cleaning chemical on the carpet and, though for the most part you are sucking it back out (with some systems they tell you to let it dry and vacuum it out later), the bottom line is that you are not truly rinsing it out. This is a problem because any cleaning chemical left in the carpet will become sticky and cause more rapid resoiling. So what we do differently to solve these problems is apply our special cleaning solution to the entire carpet separately first, from a pump sprayer. This gives the solution the time it needs to work, much like soaking your clothes before you wash them. Then, because the cleaning solution is already on the carpet, we can use a special neutralizing rinse in the machine. So when we come along with the wand tool, we are not only rinsing out the dirt, we are rinsing out the cleaning chemicals, as well. So your carpet gets cleaner because the cleaning solution has had time to do its job, but it also stays cleaner because we have rinsed the cleaning chemicals out. We do a similar process with upholstery, except that we do a full hand shampoo of the fabric before rinsing it and the soil out. “If It’s
This reduces the fibre’s affinity for oily and particulate soils. As this brittle film"breaks away" and more soil is removed, the appearance of the fibre improves as opposed to soiling more rapidly. Products which also employ fluorochemical technology, display dramatically extended anti re-soiling time periods. Cleaning solution is applied by rotary machine, brush applicator, or compression sprayer. Dry residue is vacuumable immediately (20-30 min. drytime), either separately or from a built-in unit of the cleaning-system machine. According to ICS Cleaning Specialist, evidence suggests encapsulation improves carpet appearance, compared to other systems; and it is favorable in terms of high-traffic needs, operator training, equipment expense, and lack of wet residue. Encapsulation carpet cleaning also keeps carpets cleaner for longer periods of time compared to other methods. Encapsulation also avoids the drying time of carpet shampoos, making the carpet immediately available for use. The use of encapsulation to create a crystalline residue that can be immediately (20-30 min. drytime) vacuumed (as opposed to the residue of wet cleaning systems, which generally requires an additional day before vacuuming) is a newer technology that has recently become an accepted method for commercial and residential deep cleaning. Bonnet This section does not cite any sources. Please help improve this section by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (March 2015) (Learn how and when to remove this template message) After club soda mixed with cleaning product, other products are also possible, is deposited onto the surface as mist, a round buffer or "bonnet" scrubs the mixture with rotating motion. This industry machine resembles a floor buffer, with an absorbent spin or oscillating pad that attracts soil and is rinsed or replaced repeatedly. The bonnet method is not strictly dry-cleaning and involves significant drying time. To reduce pile distortion, the absorbent bonnet should be kept well-lubricated with cleaning solution. Its not recommended to dunk the bonnet in a bucket of cleaning solution and then wring it out with a mop-bucket wringer, then the bonnet is to wet. Its very important to change or turn the bonnet early, Bonnets can become filled with soil in just a couple hundred square feet. And once loaded with soil, the bonnet will not hold any more; instead, it simply moves the soil from one area to another. The overly wet bonnet also deposits residues that attract soils when they are dry, creating the need to clean more often. Its recommended for robust and not for high floor carpet, it swirls the floor. It distorts pile and grinds dirt deeper in carpet fiber also it has an abrasive effect. When there is a large amount of foreign material in the carpet, extraction with a wet process may be needed. Normally, the spin-bonnet method may not be as capable of sanitizing carpet fibers due to the lack of hot water, for this a spezial thermo machine is needed, here the buffing machine is equipped with a heating, to heat up the bonnet, but a post-cleaning application of an antimicrobial agent is used to make up for this. Compared to steam cleaning, the small amounts of water required with spin-bonnet carpet cleaning favor water-conservation considerations. It only cleans the top of the carpet 1/8 inch but its very fast for wide areas. But bonnet cleaning is not the best mechanism for completely removing the chemical that is pre-sprayed onto a carpet. Its recommended that only surfactant free or encapsulating products are used. On the other hand, the re-soiling is great. Shampoo Wet shampoo cleaning with rotary machines, followed by thorough wet vacuuming, was widespread until about the 1970s, but industry perception of shampoo cleaning changed with the advent of encapsulation. Hot-water extraction, also regarded as preferable, had not been introduced either. Wet shampoos were once formulated from coconut oil soaps; wet shampoo residues can be foamy or sticky, and steam cleaning often reveals dirt unextracted by shampoos. Since no rinse is performed, the powerful residue can continue to collect dirt after cleaning, leading to the misconception that carpet cleaning can lead to the carpet getting "dirtier faster" after the cleaning. The best method is to combine shampoo and extraction, first shampoo with a spin brush to loosen the dirt and the pile, then extraction the carpet. But this needs time and double rinsed is necessary and the drying time is up to 24 h.